Siem Reap and Angkor temples

Feb 21

We took the jetty over to the mainland and visited the Pre-Angkorian ruins of Wat Phou, one of the sites on the Mekong river and an UNESCO site since 2001. The site dates back to the 5th century. It is believed that the original temple was built by Khmer Hindus who eventually made Angkor Wat their capital. We climbed a huge hill to view the temple. Cows were wandering around the place and in and out of the temple. The local people were cleaning up after the festival and burning the trash, including plastics! 

We then went to the airport and flew to Siem Reap, where we were met by our local guide Daling Seng. His English was great and he was a source of invaluable information on Angkor Wat. He said he was one of the lucky ones born in 1979 and who survived Pol Pot's regime. His Dad was a French teacher, but he moved the family to Siem Reap for safety and then worked in the local fields to avoid being murdered by Pol Pot. He was killing all intellectuals. We went to Ta Prohm first after checking into our hotel.

Ta Prohm was built in the 12th to 13th century. It is unique because it was surrounded by strangler figs and silk cotton trees. In the original plan or Ta Prohm, 260 divinities were called. Many were added later. This site was preserved as it was found to highlight the immense work that the entire Angkor Wat site required. They did some preservation work to prevent further decay, but the building's appeal stems from the way in which the trees have overtaken it with their long extending root systems. 

This temple was originally built in 1186 as a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of the king, Jayvavarman VII.It actually has an inscription that provides this information. Almost 80,000 people were required to maintain and attend to this temple. There were 5000 artisans, 615 dancers, 2700 officials to name a few.

It is a temple of towers, closed corridors, and a maze of corridors in which one could get easily lost if touring by oneself. In one of the walls there was a drawing of what looks like a stegosaurus. How could that be??

This site is also the focus of the TombRaider movie.

Afterwards we went to a local lake where we were met by another local person who provided us with refreshments while we watched the sun set on the lake. It was really a great way to end the day.

Feb. 22

We got up early and departed at 5:00 am to see the sun rise over Angkor Wat, an earthly representation of Mt. Meru. We walked in from the east side in the dark and then awaited the sun rise. It was really magical.

Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument. Dated in the early 12th century it was an example of Khmer archictecture. Angkor Wat means "city which became a pagoda" really was like a city. It was built during the reign of Suryavarman II and served as the capital and the State Temple of the Khmer dedicated to Vishnu. The large temple contains a pyramid and concentric galleries. The pyramids were developed with a series of steps. The temple faces the West which leads to the idea that the temple was built to worship Vishnu. Most temples faced East so this was a break in tradition. There is a moat surrounding Angkor Wat. When you enter from the west you cross the moat and see evidence of the towers that were a central part of the temple. We climbed to the third level in one of the remaining towers. There are many amazing bas-reliefs carved into the limestone walls. The reliefs tell the stories from the sources of Ramayana and Mahahbarata, Hindu sources. After touring this amazing structure we had breakfast across the street.

Angkor Wat was never abandoned as was Ta Prohm. People lived in and around Angkor Wat and during the Civil War in Cambodia nearly 200 families lived here.

After eating we got on bikes to ride to the next temple. We rode on dirt roads through a remote village and and through the woods and on top of the moat around the  Angkor Thom temple overlooking the river. Angkor Thom was one of the largest cities ever built. I was built byJayavarman II and probably remained the capital unti the 17th century. Angkor Wat is surrounds by a wall and moats and there are four entrances to this area.

 At the center of Angkor Thom is Bayon, a very complex temple. It passed through Hindu and Buddhist phases. The city of Angkor Thom was very well fortified so they just kept remodeling Bayon rather than build another temple. Temple Bayon has a number of bas-reliefs telling the story of its people. There is a linga in this temple which no one knows the date.

That evening people went out to eat nearby and I stayed in having been revisited by Montezuma after a glass of wine the night before. Immodium was our friend  for sure!!!

Feb 23

After breakfast we left by van to the Cambodian village of Krabei Real where we met a man at the local market who was going to host our lunch that day. We bought fresh vegetables and meat there and he went home to prepare the meal.  We saw a woman making a papaya salad to sell, which was the first time we saw someone sell already prepped food. We also saw a woman making sugar cane juice by feeding sugar cane into a machine. 

We then travelled by ox cart, which was the original form of transportation, and rode 30 minutes to see a temple, meet a Cambodian woman who survived Pol Pot, and then another 30 minutes by cart to reach the family's home where we enjoyed a delicious meal. On the dirt road, we passed rice fields, houses, children in trees,  schools and pagodas. In the pagodas the monks live there and provide for themselves, whereas in the temples, the monk's beg for food (alms) and leave the temple to do so. 

We visited a unique temple where the stories from the religious principles in Buddhism were painted on the walls. We saw some women painting these and taking care of the temple, which was rare.

After riding in the oxcart again, we finally arrived at the family's home. They had been chosen by Selective Asia and return for sharing their home, they received some helpf from SA. We entered their house by taking off our shoes and then sitting down in the one big area of the house. Outside the main room was the kitchen and outhouse with a porcelain toilet. Upstairs were two sleeping  rooms.

For lunch was had soup, tea, lots of veggies and pork and chicken and fruit and rice. We loved their tea and they made several pots of tea for us. It was ginger tea with honey.

We learned that the life expectancy of a Cambodian was 57 for males and 62 for women. Their daughter, Soviet, who was 15 went to school and played soccer. Her English was very good. 

We took a van home from the family's home and stopped at the Angkor Artisans to see how people with disabilities were trained to create various arts.  We observed silvermaking, stonework, jewelry, lacquerware, weaving, and porcelain and clay works. Very beautiful!! 

That evening we ate at a French restaurant next to our hotel since we were being picked up early to go the Phare Circus. The Phare Circus comprised of Street kids, ppoor kids who needed to learn a skills, be fed and clothed and given an education. They then performed for audiences regularly. The circus was a storytelling event about Rice. Rice was used as a metaphor on life. The people performed acrobatics, dance, storytelling, juggling and gymnastics. Absolutely entertaining!!