Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Luang Prabang, Laos

Feb 14
This is an amazing city! Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and is a UNESCO designated World Heritage Site. It is a combination of Lao architecture and Colonial French influence . This town has a strong French interest as well as Lao.

We enjoyed a typical Lao barbecue , which reminded us of fondue. It is called Sin Dat and our guide, Sy cooked the meal for us.  There is a small charcoal burning stove that is in the center of your table and you cook your food right there. Everything cooks right at your table. It was great. We had boiled fresh vegetables, chicken, beef and pork.

Prior to dinner I walked around the area  by myself and happened up the Children's Cultural Center where Lao kids learn about Lao culture and traditions and learn skills that help them preserve the culture. I saw a dance program this evening. Then I met the author of SE Asian textiles in her shop where she has vintage embroideries and indigo batiks. Her husband had antiques and he was from France whereas she was from Seattle, Washington. Interesting shop, but very challenging to keep up.

Feb 15
We got up at 5:30 am to watch the monks receive alms. There were hundreds of them!!! Walking in a line to collect food for them to eat or distribute to the poor. We actually saw a monk take from his alms bowl to give two little kids food.  Apparently they feed the poor from what is given to them. Our guide had been a monk for 10 years because his Dad couldn't provide for him and wanted him to get an education. He had a lot to offer in terms of understanding the monk way of life. Monks can not be touched and they don't make their own food. We bought rice to serve them and handed it out until we ran out.

We returned to our hotel for breakfast and then we went to the National Museum, which was built by a king who never ended up living there. The king was exiled in 1975. There were beautiful red tiles covered with mosaics and gold.

After that we hiked up steps to  Mt. Phousi to get a view of Luang Prabang. Some in our group bought birds to release them in order to get a special blessing. There were 328 steps to the top. This became a reference point with other temple hikes.

We then went to the most beautiful temple in Luang Prabang. It had once held the ashes of the king , but no longer. There was a game of fortunes in this temple and in another one we saw later. People would pay to have their fortune told through numbers. If they didn't like their fortune, they would pay again to get another one more favorable. We also visited Wat Xieng Thong where there is a tree of life mosaic in the most photographed temple in Luang Prabang.

We finished the day exploring the Museum of Lao art and ethnicities. It showed the dress, musical instruments and traditions of various cultural tribes. Then we drove to a weaving and paper making village where I bought a small sample. We watched the paper making process as well. The artistry in the weavings is still very good and people take pride in their work.

Some of us went to Ock Pop Tom to see the products of a women's cooperative and then to the Little Mouse bookshop where Lao people can learn English. Anyone who speaks English is invited to share their time and language with the Lao people who would love to learn the language. There are so many restaurants and stores where the welfare of the poor and young are considered- not just for the bottom line in money. Part of your fare goes to support social agencies. In addition in many of the restaurants people are learning the skill of working with people, exchanging money, cooking, cleaning etc.

For lunch earlier in the day we went to a high end restaurant to taste culinary specialities. We had fish cooked in bamboo and a sample appetizer of pickled cucumbers, bamboo and eggplant salad. Both the taste and the presentation of food was excellent.

We walked down to the river and ate dinner on the river and then walked through the Night market where I purchased my blue Hmong bedspread.





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